Vintage Robert Lee Morris Jewelry Buying Guide

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Want Vintage Robert Lee Morris Jewelry? Learn about history, jewelry marks, materials used, collectible pieces, and where to buy in this buying guide. 

Robert Lee Morris: “I’m not a fine jeweler in my heart. I’m a designer and metalsmith. I’m definitely a fashion-oriented producer of bold, large-scale things . . . . I realized that if I continued to make big, bold things out of precious metals, very few people would be able to afford it. Costume jewelry is really where I feel most comfortable.”

Brief History of Robert Lee Morris Jewelry

Robert Lee Morris was born in 1947 to American parents stationed in Nuremberg, Germany, with the US Air Force. When Robert was nine, they were stationed in Japan for four years and later in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. He graduated from Beloit College in Wisconsin in 1969 and and then, in true 60s style, founded a craft commune, Big Ted’s Farm. Everyone on the farm made something different. He decided to make jewelry and learned by means of an easy-to-follow book, How to Make Jewelry. He got a hammer and wire, built himself a workshop in a shed and learned metalworking to the sounds of Led Zeppelin. 

When fire destroyed the farm, Robert moved to Vermont and sold his jewelry at craft fairs. In that unlikely setting, he was discovered by an art dealer who displayed his work in her shop, Sculpture to Wear, in the Plaza Hotel in New York City. There, his bold silver jewelry was sold alongside of artists such as Pablo Picasso and Man Ray. When Sculpture to Wear closed, Robert open the Artwear Gallery in SoHo, gained a celebrity clientele and his jewelry, described as “modern urban warrior pieces,” became the power jewelry of the 1980s.

The concept of Artwear was a natural evolution for the designer’s hippie past. There was a mix of costume jewelry and fine jewelry and a mix of up-and-coming jewelry designers. Robert held open calls for new designers to exhibit their work every Sunday to fresh talent and to help support the struggling jewelry community. 

In 1985, Robert worked with fashion designer Donna Karan and paired her sleek, luxurious fashions with his organic, oversize, sculptural gold jewelry: silver and gold vermeil bead necklaces, Maasai-style collars, big round earrings and mega cuffs perfectly complemented DK’s wide shoulders, elongated torsos and cinched waists.

In 1995, Robert closed Artwear and opened RLM Robert Lee Morris Gallery on Broadway carrying only his own work. He also formed a partnership with QVC to sell his fine jewelry line, the “RLM Collection.” 

In 2011, he partnered with Miriam Haskell Jewels and expanded his business. His “SoHo Collection” was sold in national department stores and a higher-end collection was launched in 2012 at higher-end retailers.

Robert is still passionate about designing jewelry and about teaching metalworking. For one example, he has taught Haitian artisans more elaborate techniques (wax process, carving, soldering) and arranges for them to get electric tools. He also provides inspiration to jewelry designers around the world.

Robert now feels he is where he belongs: . . . “in the world of big, bold fashion, not worrying about gold and diamond pricing. I’m all about knuckle rings; that’s really my brand driver. I think diamonds would screw it up.” 

Jewelry Marks

  • “925 RLM Thailand”
  • “925 China RLM Studio”
  • “Robert Lee Morris” in script all letters joined, somewhat like RobertLeeMorris
rlm studio silver mark
rml studios mark
Robert Lee Morris mark

Materials Used

  • Gold
  • Gold plating
  • Silver
  • Pewter
  • Bronze
  • Copper
  • Pearl
  • Turquoise
  • Crystal
  • Quartz
  • Glass beads
  • Citrine
  • Tiger’s eye
  • Topaz
  • Olivine
  • Jasper
  • Onyx
  • Coral
  • Lapis lazuli
  • Abalone
  • Mother of Pearl
  • Rhodonite
  • Shell
  • Leather
  • Ebony
  • Rosewood

Favorite Collectibles: Vintage Robert Lee Morris Jewelry

Serpent Pin

RARE Vintage 1980s Signed Robert Lee Morris Serpent Pin from Etsy

RARE Vintage 1980s Signed Robert Lee Morris Serpent Pin from Etsy

1980s. This very rare serpent pin is gold-plated brass with a matte finish. The back has a C-clasp pin. Measurements: 1.75 inches long, 2.5 inches wide.

Gold-Plated Triangles Choker/Necklace

Robert Lee Morris Gold Vintage Plated Triangles Choker from Tradesy

Robert Lee Morris Gold Vintage Plated Triangles Choker from Tradesy

Estate. The gold-plated choker has a 3-dimensional look with connected triangles connected with pins. Purchased at Artwear in NYC. Receipt is included.

Hammered Brass Y Collar and Leather Strap Necklace

Vintage Robert Lee Morris Sculptural HAMMERED BRASS necklace on Etsy

Vintage Robert Lee Morris Sculptural HAMMERED BRASS necklace on Etsy

1990s-retired. This brass and leather necklace was worn on the runway and purchased at the RLM Studio. Measurements: 2 ½ inches by 7/8 inch. 

DKNY (Donna Karan) Dog Tag Clip Earrings

Vintage Original Robert Lee Morris DKNY Dog Tag Clip Earrings from eBay

Vintage Original Robert Lee Morris DKNY Dog Tag Clip Earrings from eBay

1980s. From Robert’s first collection for Donna Karan. The iconic gold-plated pewter dog tag earrings measure 2 ½ inches long. 

15-Inch Necklace With Goldtone Circle Pendant

Vintage Estate Robert Lee Morris Necklace With Goldtone Circle Pendant from eBay

Vintage Estate Robert Lee Morris Necklace With Goldtone Circle Pendant from eBay

Estate. The 15-inch necklace has a goldtone circle pendant with forest green and aqua glass beads. Pendant has a 1 ½ inch drop. 

DKNY Black Leather Gold Plaque Chain Belt

Donna Karan Vintage Black Leather Gold Plaque Chain Belt from Amarcord Vintage Fashion

Donna Karan Vintage Black Leather Gold Plaque Chain Belt from Amarcord Vintage Fashion

1980s. Black leather belt with brushed artisan matte gold plaques, articulated pieces, and detachable gold chain. The chain has concealed loops so you can wear it across or at one side. Adjusts for size in the back—measures 22 inches to 34 inches.

Tips for Buying Vintage Robert Lee Morris Jewelry

Investigate the Seller

Not only check out the customer reviews, but check the seller’s inventory. If there are multiple pieces of the same ring, it likely is not authentic. Also check how long the seller has been in business. 

Ask the Right Questions

Contact the seller. It’s good to establish a personal relationship to get a better “feel” for the seller.  Ask how the seller came across a piece and decide if the explanation is viable, such as bought at an estate sale, is a family heirloom or the seller regular goes antique hunting. An honest seller will be happy to answer your questions. In fact, they often talk too much. Take advantage of that.  Learn to pay attention to details so you can pick up on discrepancies.

Consider the Price

If a price is too good to be true, do not buy. No one is in business to give away merchandise. Compare the quality and materials to other pieces.

Use Outside Resources

Use the Internet to learn as much as you can about RLM’s jewelry. Check out Antique Jewelry University. Also, a friendly local jeweler should be happy to help you determine authenticity (because you will go back when you want to buy a new piece of jewelry).

Do Not Buy on Impulse

It is better to pass up a questionable piece of jewelry than feel the need to grab it up then find out you were bamboozled. There will be other pieces you’ll love. Also, do not be lured into buying by the “threat” of someone else being interested in the piece. That’s an old trick. Or that it’s only on sale that day. A deal that is good today will be good tomorrow.


Anyone seriously interested in collecting Robert Lee Morris may benefit from his book, The Power of Jewelry, a memoir with many illustrations of his work and techniques and how his methods evolved throughout the years.

See RLM pages on Etsy and on eBay for enlightening (and tempting) examples of his work.

Share the Knowledge

12 thoughts on “Vintage Robert Lee Morris Jewelry Buying Guide”

  1. Is all RLM jewelry signed? I have a belt that is identified on line as a necklace belt – i t looks very much like a necklace in round segments but it is a belt. I do not see a makers mark. Is this an original or a wannabe? I’d appreciate your opinion.

  2. Hello, This is not a comment but a question. I want to know what is the difference between RLM Soho and RLM studio? Which one came first? I collect his jewelry and have both .Thanks for your quick response.

    • Hi Virginia,

      Good question! Robert Lee Morris Soho is known for its edgier, more contemporary designs; Soho is a NY neighborhood with an artistic reputation, so these pieces in this line tend to be more sculptural, bold and innovative. The Robert Lee Morris Studio line, on the other hand, tends to be more timeless and classic.

      Hope this helps!

  3. I just purchased a pair of RLM SOHO with a tiny crystal bezel set on both earrings It is right next to the designer stamp. I would like to know if this is a “special” hgher end set and why can’t I find any other stamp on other pieces I’ve looked at? I can’t even find another pair to compare. I wish I could send an attachment of the earrings for you to see and elaborate on this brand stamp. Older/newer, year, collection, one of a kind, etc.? Thank you


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