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Vintage Tortolani Jewelry Buying Guide

Looking for Vintage Tortolani Jewelry? Learn about history, jewelry marks, materials used, collectible pieces, and where to buy in this guide.

Frank Tortolani was both an accomplished artist and master craftsman whose jewelry was rarely, if ever, duplicated by would-be imitators. In the large majority of his jewelry, metal is not only the star of the show, but it is also a soloist. His pieces are highly valued by collectors today. 

Brief History of Tortolani Jewelry

Francisco “Frank” Tortolani founded a dynasty of jewelers. He came to America in 1923 after studying jewelry design with his father in Italy. In 1934, he opened the Mastercraft Jewelry Company in Providence, Rhode Island. After World War II, he moved to Los Angeles, California, and changed the company’s name to Tortolani Jewelry.

All of Frank’s jewelry was hand cast in pewter, hand polished and finished in gold or silver plate. There are some pieces with enamel and/or rhinestones, but metal was his signature material. His jewelry was in demand by some of Hollywood’s largest stars, including Frank Sinatra, John Wayne, Bob Hope, Jerry Lewis and Dean Martin. They also commissioned Frank to create “giveaway” items, such as key chains, lighters and money clips, which led Frank to create a whole line of promotional products.

Frank regularly won awards for his exciting original designs and unique techniques. In the 1960s, Max Factor commissioned Frank to create a line of compacts and figurines—also highly collectible today. He also created jewelry for Avon Products.

Frank closed up shop under the Tortolani name in 1976, and his eldest son, Donald, followed in his father’s footsteps with a jewelry line called “Corina” and continued to make promotional items. The company is still in business and now includes Donald, Jr., and Donald, Sr.’s, granddaughter, Robin. At times, they reissue some of Frank’s older designs using the original molds, but add a small triangle near the “Tortolani” hallmark to distinguish those items from the originals.

Frank passed away in 1997 at the age of 90.

Jewelry Marks

  • The earliest hallmark was a script “Tortolani” without a copyright symbol.
  • The next hallmark had the copyright symbol before the script “Tortolani.”
  • The newer hallmark has the copyright symbol after the script “Tortolani.”
  • The copyright symbol below the script “Tortolani” was for reissues.
  • “Tortolani Crislu” is the hallmark in the 1970s.
  • Pieces produced since 2002 have a small triangle near the script “Tortolani.”
Tortolani Signature
TORTOLANI mark
tortolani jewelry mark

Materials Used

  • Gold
  • Silver
  • Metal with gold, silver or bronze coating
  • Brass
  • Pewter
  • Simulated pearls
  • Cabochons of unusual shapes, textures and colors
  • Crystals
  • Rhinestones
  • Polished Beijing glass
  • Glass
  • Enamel

Favorite Collectibles: Vintage Tortolani Jewelry

Rose Dangle Necklace with Original Chains (Runway Jewelry)

Vintage Tortolani Dangle Rose Necklace from eBay

Triple chain necklace in gold plate with rose pendant. The chains are original and measure 20 inches. Pendant is 3 ½ inches by 2 ¼ inches.

Dragon Necklace Pendant with Chunky Gold Plated Chain

Vintage 60s Tortolani Dragon Necklace from Etsy

1960s-1970s. Gold-plated dragon measures 5.75 inches by 3 inches. The chunky chain is made of brass or pewter and measures 16 inches.

Pendant Knight St. George Dragon Slayer Necklace

Vintage Tortolani Pendant of Knight St George Dragon Slayer available on Etsy

1960s. A Gothic, antique gold-tone and silver-tone pendant featuring St. George the Dragon Slayer accented with rhinestones. Pendant diameter is 2 ¾ inches. The heavy rope-style chain measures 26 inches.

White Pearl & Gold-Colored Bracelet

Tortolani White Pearl & Gold Colored Bracelet from Ruby Lane

Gold-plated and simulated pearl bracelet. Four sections of the bracelet have larger pearls to represent fruit and four sections have smaller ones to resemble grapes or berries. Bracelet is 1 1/8 inches wide.

Gold Spray Link Bracelet

Wide TORTOLANI Gold Spray Link Bracelet from Mercari

1960s. Rare 24K gold over pewter bracelet has 9 dimensional links with modernistic wheat shaft encircles by gold ribbon. All sections are connected by long textured link couplings. Bracelet is 2 ¼ inches wide.

Pendant Necklace American Flag Yankee Doodle Dandy

Rare Vintage Tortolani Yankee Doodle Dandy Pendant Necklace from eBay

1960s. Rare piece with silver sculpted figures representing the minutemen marching during the Revolutionary War playing “Yankee Doodle Dandy” on the drums and fife and holding the American Flag against a gold sunburst. Pendant is 1.5 inches in diameter. Chain measures 24 inches.

Libra Pendant/ Necklace

Vintage Tortolani Libra Pendant Necklace

1960s. Part of Tortolani’s Zodiac series. Libra is the seventh sign of the Zodiac and represented by the Scales of Justice. This pendant is a beautiful gold-tone and is 2 ½ inches in diameter. The chain is 24 inches long.

Tips for Buying Vintage Tortolani Jewelry

  • In addition to your usual “haunts” (flea markets, antique jewelry markets and shops, auctions and estate sales), it may be worth your while to drop into pawn shops. You’ll find that some deal in high quality vintage jewelry and others in “not so” high or not even vintage. But it’s worth a few minutes of your time.
  • Comparison shop—if not for the exact same piece, one in the same line. For instance, if you see one of Frank’s highly prized Zodiac pieces, you will be able to find others of that line easily enough online.
  • Wherever you shop, be sure to take proper precautions:
  • Don’t buy on impulse, no matter how insistent the vendor is or if he/she tells you 12 other people are interested in buying the piece. If there really were 12 other people, then there is no reason for you to be pressured.
  • Examine the piece carefully—front, back, in the nooks and crannies. A loupe should be your constant companion.
  • Ask questions—no matter how silly or dumb you think they are. The vendor should answer them all knowledgeably and respectfully. If you sense the vendor is annoyed with you, leave.
  • You need to feel comfortable with the vendor. If you have a “funny feeling,” pay attention to it. Better yet, if possible, do some background work on the vendor because you shop. If it isn’t possible, definitely do it later, but before buying. 

Conclusion

When you hold a piece of Tortolani jewelry in your hand, you will know that you are holding a work of art. For now, visit the Tortolani pages on Etsy and on eBay to whet your appetite.

Share the Knowledge

18 thoughts on “Vintage Tortolani Jewelry Buying Guide”

  1. I was just given a heavy necklace my cousin found in a huge box of junk she bought at an estate sale. It has 3 moons on a heavy pendant. On the back is Totaloni with a C after. I was just curious if it had any symbolic meaning?

    Reply
    • Hi Lisa, Tortolani jewelry was founded by Frank Tortolani in the 1930s. When he closed his factory, his eldest son, Donald founded his own jewelry trademarks “Corina” and “Crislu” The C on your necklace is probably a shortened version of one of those. As for the triple moon, it is a pagan design which goes back centuries and is said to represent the different parts of the lunar cycle – waxing, full and waning.

      Sounds like a nice piece!
      Susannah

      Reply
  2. I have just found a Silver ‘squash blossom’ turquoise necklace in my late mother’s jewelry collection. I need to find a value as a friend wishes to purchase this piece. I have photos but cannot locate a signature on the beautiful piece but has been stored in a leather Tortolani Crislu bag for years. I remember my mother wearing this piece often; her favorite. I may decide to keep it myself.

    Reply
    • Hi Nancy,
      Your necklace may be from the 1970s, if in fact it is a real Tortolani Crislu piece. That was the company’s hallmark from the 1970s onwards. Prior to that, it was just Tortolani. However, if the necklace was merely stored in that bag, it is more difficult to assign a true age and value. If it is authentic, it may be worth up to $2,000 or more, but without any jewelry marks on it at all, it does not sound as if it is real. Tortolani jewelry had a script and or copyright signature on all pieces. To ascertain authenticity, we recommend you try one of the following websites: whatsitworthartappraisals.com, valuemystuff.com. or drloriv.com.

      Best of luck with it,
      Susannah

      whatsitworthartappraisals.com, valuemystuff.com. or drloriv.com.

      Reply
  3. hi, I have an silver version of the zodiac bracelet. I adore it, one of my kids found it while perusing my cabinet of jewelry. it got me looking, and I just noticed there are actually 2 versions of this! where the bracelet clasp is on the front, one version has a plant stem coming from the woman figure on the right. a branch of leaves is hung up to the left towards the stars on the left of the bracelet. another version doesn’t have the branch of leaves and there are 2 stars on the left, above the horse it whatever it is, above his head. I can’t find any info about 2 versions! do you know anything about this? I see both in several places online, so i doubt it’d be a fake. all have signature in same place on the back. once I realized the sight variation I’ve been on a mad hunt in the last few hours–with no answers sadly. any help appreciated! thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Kori,

      Very interesting! If the pieces all have the correct signature on them, sounds like they are real. Yes, it can be frustrating trying to find answers about jewelry. We sympathize! The best way to get some information is to contact one of the following websites for authentication and valuation: whatsitworthartappraisals.com, valuemystuff.com. or drloriv.com.

      Wishing you lots of luck!
      Susannah

      Reply
  4. Hi! I have a thin gold bracelet that has an emerald set in a claw-looking setting. The bracelet has a Tortolani Crislu tag, and on the back of the tag, it says “Genuine Raw Emeralds by Thomas Robbins.” I can’t find anything even similar to it on any internet searches. Can anyone help me with figuring out if what I have is a unique piece? I wish I could somehow post pics of it on this thread.

    Reply
    • Hello Lynn,

      Sounds like a lovely bracelet! Tortolani Crislu pieces are unique and very collectible these days – and Thomas Robbins was definitely one of their top designers. We recommend you send photos of it to one of the following websites for further authentication, however: whatsitworthartappraisals.com, valuemystuff.com. or drloriv.com.

      Best of luck!
      Susannah

      Reply
  5. Hi! I bought this silver metal flower bud bracelet from a charity shop in Sydney.
    There is no trademark anywhere but looking at the internet of Tortolani jewellery pieces, it could be one of his pieces. It is so unusual with a silver metal ball and four silver metal petals holding it. Really lovely!
    How can I know if this is one of his jewellery? Thank you!

    Reply
  6. I just found a beautiful Tortolani piece in a thrift shop this morning, a Devil on My Shoulder pin with the pinback placed so it can actually sit on your shoulder! I’ve seen online that it was sold as a set with an angel for the other shoulder. Looks like the hallmark is the second iteration, according to your page. Do you know what years that second hallmark style was used? Thank you for all this information, it was super helpful!

    Reply
  7. I found a box of old Tortolani jewelry in my late mom in law’s closet.

    My husband told me his dad used to own a plating factory in Los Angeles that worked with Frank and Donald Tortolani in the 70’s and 80’s and he, eventually, bought the Tortolani Factory. My husband remembers playing with the granddaughter, though he doesn’t remember her name. Many of the pieces we have are complete sets with necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets or cuffs – all matching. A lot of faux pearls and rhinestones, interesting motifs. I wouldn’t have thought them worth anything other than sentimental value if I hadn’t have found this website. Quite a few of these pieces have never been worn, they still have price tags and/or the little paper Tortolani signature tag on them, though they are all pretty tarnished.

    I don’t know if I should try to – or how to – clean them up? Should I sell them on EBay or hang on to them as family heirlooms? I don’t even know what they’re worth.

    Reply
    • Hi Lesli,

      Sounds like you have a treasure trove of Tortolani! As they are vintage pieces, you should very careful cleaning them. Warm water and a little dish soap with a soft rag helps potential buyers (if you go that route) to appreciate the designs better. Firstly, though, why not get the collection valued before you decide to keep it as an heirloom or sell? That way, you’ll know what you have.

      You can contact one of the following resources:
      http://www.drloriv.com, http://www.valuemystuff.com or http://www.whatsitworth.net

      All the best,
      Susannah

      Reply
  8. I should revise my comment to say that Jerry worked with Tortolani throughout the 60’s and 70’s. I don’t know if it’s important to date these pieces.

    Reply
  9. Susannah,
    Hi there, at a yard sale I found a small brutalist style gold tone pendant of a naked girl hanging upside down signed ” tortolani” without the copyright symbol. I have done endless research but I can’t find anything like it. I would love any help with this unique piece.

    Reply
    • Hi Michelle,

      If your necklace doesn’t have the copyright symbol it means it is probably an older piece. The first pieces made were marked just Tortolani, then a copyright mark was added before or above the Tortolani mark on later pieces.

      Hope that helps,
      Susannah

      Reply

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