Guide to Vintage Christian Dior Jewelry

Christian Dior is one is the elite fashion houses to bring costume jewelry to the mainstream. If you are looking to purchase vintage Christian Dior jewelry, or you just want to learn more about the brand, you have come to the right place. Here you will learn about the history, jewelry marks, materials used, most collectible pieces, and tips on how to buy.

"As a rule I would use jewelry generously to get the most out of it. A many stoned necklace of rhinestones for instance will look lovely with a décolleté frock for evening. It will go equally with a fine black knitted sweater for afternoons”  - Christian Dior

Brief History of Christian Dior Jewelry

Christian Dior was founded in 1947 in Paris. Dior’s first designs from the 1947 Spring/Summer collection were referred to as, the “New Look.” This collection marks a change in fashion post World War II.

Christian Diors New Look

Christian Dior's "New Look". Image from Flickr

The 1947 look was more feminine than styles from before the war. It was characterized by full skirts, narrow waists, and structured tops.

Dior believed that jewelry was as much a part of fashion as clothing was. His jewelry was designed to complement his clothing collections.

By 1948, Dior opened a fashion house called, “Dior Costume Jewelry” in Germany. Dior jewelry was inspired by nature; depictions of animals and floral motifs were common.

In the 1950s, Christian Dior hired the American Mitchell Maer to produce fine jewelry for the house. His floral compositions and motifs, such as the unicorn brooches are very rare today.

Christian Dior Moscow Exhibition

Christian Dior Moscow Exhibition. Image from WikiCommons

Dior loved the rural landscape and gardens of France. His designs reflected this love in his use of repetitive floral motifs of wildflowers, roses, and lilies.

"Color is what gives jewels their worth. They light up and enhance the face. Nothing is more elegant than a black skirt and sweater worn with a sparkling multi-stoned necklace. “ - Christian Dior

In 1956, Dior collaborated with the Swarovski firm to develop the aurora borealis rhinestone, a rhinestone with an iridescent coating that changes color depending on the angle it is viewed from.

Christian Dior commissioned only the finest designers and companies to make high-quality costume jewelry for his fashion collections. In the US he hired designers such as Schreiner and Kramer; in England, Mitchel Maer; in Germany, Henkel & Grosse; and in France, Robert Goossens and Josette Gripoix.

  • Henry Schreiner produced one design in 1949
  • Louis Kramer manufactured Dior designs for the American market from 1952 to 1956
  • Mitchel Mear designed for the house from 1952 - 1956
  • The German Henkel & Grosse made designs from 1955 up to the present day
  •  Josette Gripoix designed for Dior in the 1950s
  • Robert Goossens of France, who also worked for Chanel

Christian Dior died in 1957, at the young age of 52. He left his design house to Yves St Laurent. Yves St Laurent left in 1960, and Marc Bohan took his place until Gianfranco Ferre took over in 1989. John Galliano replaced Gianfranco in 1997.

In 1998, the fashion house launched the fine jewelry division of “Dior Joaillerie.” Victoire de Castellane was announced as the creative director. Castellane had worked for the house of Chanel under Karl Lagerfeld from 1984-1998.

Christian Dior Jewelry Designers

Shreiner

Schreiner Jet Glass Pin Brooch and Earring from vintagejewelboxshop on Etsy

Schreiner Jet Glass Pin Brooch and Earring from vintagejewelboxshop on Etsy

Schreiner didn’t make a lot of jewelry for Dior, and not much is known about him, but his jewelry is some of the finest made costume jewelry, and some of the most sought after.

Schreiner used unusual color combinations, oversized scale, and layers of stones, every piece was a work of art. His jewelry was hand-finished and made in small productions.

Kramer

KRAMER Aurora Borealis Crystal Brooch Set from ShimmerTreeVintage on Etsy

KRAMER Aurora Borealis Crystal Brooch Set from ShimmerTreeVintage on Etsy

Kramer produced ornate pieces for Dior, with cascading Swarovski aurora borealis crystals, petal-shaped pastes, and baroque faux pearls. He was a big admirer of stone-rich designs and loved decorating his pieces with textured or “crackled” glass, crystal beads, colored pearls and all kinds of colorful enamel.

Christian Dior advertisement costume jewelry

Gown designed by Robert Perrier for Christian Dior. Image courtesy of WikiCommons 

Mitchel Maer

Vintage 1950's Christian Dior Earrings by Mitchel Maer from WillowHilsonVintage on Etsy

Vintage 1950's Christian Dior Earrings by Mitchel Maer from WillowHilsonVintage on Etsy

Mitchel Maer is known for his bold use of color, his bold rhinestone creations complemented the couture evening wear designed by Dior during the 1950s. Mitchel’s jewelry was very technically advanced and often inspired by Victorian aesthetic.

Pieces by Mitchel Maer are highly collectible, especially his floral and unicorn pins.

Henkel and Grossé

Gold Henkel Grossé Dior Brooch from NorthernBelleFinds on Etsy

Gold Henkel Grossé Dior Brooch from NorthernBelleFinds on Etsy

Henkel and Grossé specialized in gold-colored metal pieces, but for Dior, they produced highly elaborate rhinestone sets of jewelry as well. All of their jewelry was handmade with stunning designs.

The Grossé Jewellery company has the exclusive right to produce and sell the collection line Christian Dior Bijoux.

Roger Scemama

Scemama was renowned for his opulent and baroque gilt metal designs as well as the highly visible claw setting of his stones. He produced designs for Dior in the 1950s, his designs went well with the post-war return to feminine and romantic fashions.

Roger Jean Pierre

Between 1947 and 1958, Roger was director of Maison Francis Winter where he collaborated on jewelry and accessories for Dior.

Roger Jean Pierre is known for his glamorous designs of flanked in rhinestones carefully set into intricate patterns. He was a great advocate of garlands and graduation in his pieces, which worked with the movement of the body.

Francis Winter

Francis Winter is known for his use of large-scale Swarovski carved stones in dazzling shades. Colors included ‘Bermuda Blue’ and ‘Heliotrope.’ Winter had exclusive rights to use the blueish mauve ‘Heliotrope’ shade in his pieces.

Josette Gripoix

The house of Gripoix makes glass jewelry for various designers including Chanel, Givenchy, and Dior. These skilled French artisans perfected poured glass components, along with beads, cabochons, and coated pearls.

Robert Goossens

Goossens loved to mix genuine and fake stones, he was heavily influenced by  Maltese, Byzantium, and Renaissance works. He utilized natural and colored rock crystal, bronze, shells, and pearls in his jewelry designs.

Jewelry Marks

Most Christian Dior Jewelry is dated, and there are variations of the signature from 1947- to the present.

Pieces by the French paruriers can be hard to distinguish. Occasionally, their jewelry is marked ‘Made in France,’ but collectors often have to rely on familiarity with a particular designers’ style and preferred materials to decide who a piece is by.

Kramer Marks - 1950's

Pieces are marked "Christian Dior by Kramer," “Dior by Kramer,” or “Kramer for Dior.”

christian dior by kramer mark

Henkel and Grossé Marks

Jewelry produced by Henkel and Grosse was marked but varies from decade to decade.

  • In the 1950s, the jewelry was marked ‘Dior West Germany’; or ‘Made in Germany for Christian Dior’ (the year of production was indicated on some but not all).
  • In the 1960s and 1970s, ‘Chr.Dior’, a copyright symbol and the year of manufacture was marked onto the pieces.
  • In the 1980s this was changed to ‘Christian Dior,’ along with the copyright symbol and year of manufacture.
Christian Dior marking
Christian Dior 1960 marking
Christian Dior 1963 Dior marking
Christian Dior 1971 mark

Mitchel Maer Marks - 1952 until 1956

Pieces are stamped 'CHRISTIAN DIOR BY MITCHEL MAER.' 

Christian Dior by Mitchel Maer

What is Dior Jewelry Made of?

Dior costume jewelry utilizes colored and clear crystal, pearls and semi-precious stones such as citrines and peridots, turquoise glass drops, pink stones and pearls, rhinestones, and gilt metals.

Dior Fine jewelry features such materials as mother of pearl, precious stones, onyx, opals, and gold.

Is Christian Dior Jewelry Real Gold?

Dior uses real gold in their fine jewelry lines. 

Dior's fashion or costume jewelry is not made with real gold, rather a gold-tone finish is added to a base metal. 

Collecting Vintage Christian Dior Jewelry

Christian Dior is a brand worth collecting. Pieces will hold their value, and as they age and become rarer, will increase in value. 

How to Identify Genuine Christian Dior Jewelry

  • Look for signatures on the back of the piece or on the hangtag of a necklace.
  • Prong set rhinestones are a hallmark of Dior designs.
  • Look for High-quality findings, settings, and stones.
  • Jewelry will have a good weight to it, it won’t feel light and cheap.

Tips on Buying Vintage Christian Dior Jewelry

  • Licensed Dior jewelry from the 1980s and 90s is usually reasonably priced.
  • The 1970s and 1980s pieces by Henkel and Grossé were produced in higher number than their 50s counterparts and are therefore easier to find.  
  • If you are buying online, check photos and descriptions scrupulously.
  • Check for tarnishing and make sure the gems are still secure.
  • Check if clasps are working.

The Most Valuable Christian Dior Jewelry

  • Any piece that was made while Christian Dior was alive will command a very high price.
  • Complete parures produced by Kramer for Dior.
  • Pieces by Mitchel Maer are highly collectible, especially his floral and unicorn pins.
  • Early Dior jewelry made by his mid-century band of designers including Robert Goossens, Roger Jean Pierre, and Schreiner.

Best Vintage Dior on Etsy

I often buy from Etsy because I love their vast vintage section, the ability to browse specific categories, and I feel good supporting small businesses.

 Two Etsy shops that I recommend for buying vintage Dior jewelry are:

I also enjoy shopping on eBay. There is a large selection of vintage Dior jewelry there. 

Conclusion

With Christian Dior Jewelry becoming more and more collectible, it is worth investing in jewelry from this house. If you love the Christian Dior aesthetic and want to own a piece of fashion and jewelry history, check out the Etsy shops above and find yourself a little treasure. 

Who is your favorite vintage jewelry designer? Let us know in the comments below! If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask in the comments, I am here to help 🙂 And remember to share this article with your vintage loving friends! 

Happy treasure hunting, 
Andrea

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60 thoughts on “Guide to Vintage Christian Dior Jewelry”

  1. I bought a beautiful crystal brooch from a jumble sale in 1982, it cost me 50p. Its floral and looks like a branch with curved drops featuring grey pearls. I have worn it constantly ever since. A few years ago I noticed the stamp on the back which reads Christian Dior by Mitchel Maer.
    I have never found anything like it and have always wondered if it was part of a set origanally or it it was mass produced in large numbers. Would you know how I would be able to get more information on it please.
    Regards
    Linda

    Reply
    • Hi Linda, thanks so much for your comment. Mitchel Maer did make some sets (parure’s) for Christian Dior. Is this the brooch you own and love? Mitchel Maer floral brooches are highly collectible as not many of them were made (so lucky you for finding one). I found one set that the brooch belongs to, a set with earrings and the brooch.

      I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions!

      Andrea

      Reply
  2. I recently purchased a pair of vintage pearl drop earrings at an estate sale. The stamp on the back has Dior only, it looks just like the one on the Tribales. I looked up similar earring online but most of them have Chr.Dior hallmark. Not sure if mine are authentic.

    Reply
      • Hi Andrea, I really appreciate your reply. For future reference what is the most common mark, beside the ones you listed in the article, if run across another piece of vintage Christian Dior jewelry at an estate sale or a resale store?
        Kind Regards,
        Sylvia

        Reply
          • I have a beautiful Necklace with pearls and Rinestones ,its the Chr Dior with a copy right symbol looks very rare and due to my age I cant see if all Rinestones are around the 3 pearls, the chain is about quarter in in silver beautiful, I would like to know more,is there a way I can forward a photo

          • Hi Glennis, we don’t do appraisals, unfortunately. However, I can recommend a couple of good websites that do. http://www.valuemystuff.com, wwwwhatsitworthartappraisals.com/costume-jewelry or doverjewelry.com. who has professional jewelry appraisers. If it is a Dior piece, it sounds as if it could be worth a bit, so best to get it appraised and possibly insured. If you want to sell it, Dover will offer you best market price.

            Good luck with it,
            Susannah

  3. hiya…I have the gold coloured earrings like a big button with CD in the middle and little CD’s all around the edges…I dont think ever worn.i found them in my nanas attic.many many yrs ago.they are on a grey card saying made in Germany and then in a soft grey pouch with faded Christian Dior in gold.but no signature on the actual perfect earrings..I imagine they are fake..but old ,as my nana had them..

    Reply
    • Hi Susan, sometimes it can be hard to know if they are real or fake! The fact that they are on a card saying made in Germany, and in a pouch that says Christian Dior makes them seem authentic, but then they do not have a signature on the back of the earrings, which gives us reason to believe they are not real Christian Dior. If you want to spend a little money to get a professional to have a look at your earrings you can check out this site: http://www.antique-jewelry-investor.com/antique-jewelry-hallmarks.html

      I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

      Reply
  4. Are all Dior pieces stamped/marked? I have a pair of earrings that hang on a D with a heart and a clear stone inserted, but note there is nothing to indicate whether they’re Christian Dior.

    I would be grateful for any comments, thanking you in advance.

    Reply
    • Hi Joyce, my guess is that if there is no mark on the piece, it is not an authentic Dior. All of the Dior earrings I have seen have a mark somewhere.

      Thanks so much for your question and for stopping in 🙂

      Reply
      • You are wrong. There are lots of Dior post earrings that don't have a logo because there is no room on the back to put one.

        Reply
        • Thanks for letting me know 🙂 I am mostly familiar with Dior’s clip-on earrings. I tend to err on the side of caution and only take seriously the jewelry pieces that are marked, however I know there are exceptions. If I was buying a Dior post earring with no mark, I would want to examine the piece for quality and style consistent with the brand, and I would want it to come in original packaging.

          I had a look on Etsy and found plenty of post earrings that are not marked but come on Dior earring packaging. I would want to be sure that I am buying from a reputable seller in that case. I also found some Dior post earrings that do have markings, so it seems both exist.

          Reply
  5. Hi I have a very heavy necklace which was given to my mom by a German friend. It is in a Christian Dior Bijou box. The necklace is marked on the inside of the clasp but all we can make out is what looks like a letter C in a circle. It is made up of circles with joins between them. Would this be a Christian Dior and of any value.

    Reply
    • Hi Jennifer, thanks for your question. It sounds like the c in the circle is a copyright symbol. It is hard to say if it is a Christian Dior piece if you can’t see a mark. I would look through images online of Christian Dior necklaces and see if you can find a similar necklace. Let me know if you have any other questions!

      Reply
  6. Hi! I recently received a Dior necklace as a gift from my partner, however considering he spent so much money on it, I wanted to know whether it was real or not! I looked far and wide for someone to authenticate it and came across your page, which has been most helpful!! Are all Dior necklaces real gold, as mine is magnetic which would suggest it isn’t real gold. However, the clasp includes a Chr. Dior hallmark with a c in the middle of a circle. I was just worried considering I had never seen a necklace similar to it before. Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Liv, so glad you like my work! Where did your boyfriend purchase the necklace? Was it used, vintage, or new? Some Christian Dior Jewelry is made with gold as it’s base and some jewelry is gold-plated. Their fine jewelry line is more expensive and uses precious metals, whereas their fashion or costume jewelry lines are made with other materials and may be gold-plated.

      Reply
      • He purchased it vintage on the selling site Depop. It’s not from the fine jewellery line, more so a fashion piece! That’s good to know though that not all of their jewellery is full gold, as was worried about that. Do those hallmarks seem legit?

        Reply
  7. Hi, i recently came into posession of a lovely set of gold tone cufflinks. They are circular in shape with ‘Christian Dior’ worded around the edges of each circle. On the clasp at the back it simply reads ‘Dior’ followed by an ‘R’ in a circle (Registered Trademark Symbol) I have since googled this and haven’t yet found any similar hallmarks relating to ‘Christian Dior’ Can you please tell me whether this form of hallmarking was ever used and if so when would it date to and from which country. I’m guessing ‘America’ as they tend to use the ‘R’ encircled as to the ‘C’ encircled. Thankyou.

    Reply
  8. Hi Andrea, wanted to echo what someone in an earlier post said, your page is very helpful.

    I bought a Christian Dior jewellery set of faux pearl, crystal and sapphire in the 1980’s. The earrings are for pierced ears. The necklace is stamped Chr. Dior with the C in a circle but no country or date, the earrings are not stamped but they are obviously a set. I wish to sell these and have been doing some research and I can only find the same style but in a gold chain version.

    Would you be able to tell me if these were made in the UK and if fewer of the pearl version of the style were made.

    I can send photographs.

    Kind regards
    Linda

    Reply
  9. Hi Andrea,

    not sure how to access your contact page. could you please let me know how or is there an email address i could use?
    Regards
    Linda

    Reply
  10. Hi! I’m hoping You can help and I’m in the right place?? I have some old Jewelry and I came across a pair of Christian Dior Clip on earrings. They are octagon shape Gold-tone or Gold Plated (?) with Onyx or Black Glass (?) with a border of crystals/stones. They are “stamped” with “Chr.Dior” Patent # 2733491. I was told these COULD be worth $$
    I’d greatly appreciate If You could let Me know/Help Me as much as You can as to: Are they gold-plated? onys? crystals or rhinestones? And lastly When were these made (year range?) And, Approx. How much would these be worth (if anything) or the “going price” if I wanted to sell? Thanks in advance for any/all help! It is very much appreciated! I’m clueless!

    Reply
    • Hi Carly, thanks for stopping in! I have done some research and found that Pat# 2733491 dates to 1957. It is hard to say exactly how much they are worth, but looking on Etsy I find that other Christian Dior black onyx clip-on earrings are selling for $75 – $100. I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions 🙂

      Reply
  11. Hi Andrea,

    I have a very old Dior necklace marked as ‘Christian Dior’ and is comprising lilac faux pearls and clear and pink rhinestones. It has a ver intricate chain and S hook. . It looks to be early 50’s. It does have a complex layered centre piece. I am trying to figure out the maker and best I can determine its Mitchel Maer or Francis Winter. Were all Maer pieces for Dior marked with his name ? Ultimately I wish to determine value for insurance purposes

    Thankyou

    Reply
    • Hi Jennifer, All of the pieces from Mitchel Maer for Christian Dior that I have seen are marked with his name. However, Francis Winter pieces are not marked.

      Reply
  12. Hallo,
    I have a pair of cufflinks signed Christian Dior with the copyright stamp, and also Canada on the inside of the prongs. Is Dior jewellery also made in Canada?
    regards, Steve

    Reply
    • Hi Steve, thanks for your question. Dior does have a flagship store in Toronto Canada, but I can’t find any information on the jewelry being manufactured there. I have not heard of a Canada mark on Dior jewelry, but it could be something new. I know they stamp Germany on items made in Germany, so it could be the same with Canada. I would suggest emailing Dior customer service directly and asking them 🙂 You can find contact info here.

      I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions!

      Reply
  13. Hi Andrea, I am starting a vintage jewellery shop. I collect CD materials to make new jewellery or to make bracelets or earrings from a neckless. I found a vintage 1966 necklace with a mark Chr Dior Germany. They ask 399 euros. Is that a good deal?
    Thank you very much in advance.

    Reply
    • Hi Ella, I can’t tell you for sure if that is a good deal without knowing the material that the necklace is made from. Can you link me to the necklace in question?

      Reply
  14. Hi Andrea,
    I just came across my old prom necklace from 1986 and realized that it was a CD. I searched the internet for vintage CD costume jewelry necklaces to see if I could find mine and see if it was worth anything. I checked the necklace and it has the ” CD” hanging from the extender and its imprinted ” Chr.Dior with a copyright symbol and Germany. I know that it was probably made in the 1960-1970’s from what i read about the markings.
    I have a 17 in 2 stranded gold plated necklace that has 3 octagon stones (2 pink and 1 purple) with 4 crystal clear stones alternating between each color stone (clear stone, pink, clear stone, purple, clear stone, pink, clear stone) Not sure if the clear stones are Swarovski crystals and the purple either amethyst or or rhinestone. If you could tell me the correct way to describe it and what designer created this (Grosse) and if it has any value, I’d so appreciate it. Thank you

    Dawn Gerrol

    Reply
    • Hi Dawn, are you talking about two different necklaces or the same necklace? When I look on Etsy, most vintage Christian Dior necklaces are selling for between $300 and $500. Let me know if you have any other questions!

      Reply
  15. i bought a bracelet at yard sale gold stretchable band reminds me of a watch band decorative middle crossing ribbons one looks diamond other enamel black on each side is row square like diamonds on clasp says chrdior cpyright sign germany can you help identify what i have

    Reply
  16. I loved reading all your comments

    I have a pair of Chr.Dior pierced earrings but only one is marked Chr.Dior
    and I know they were bought as a pair in the 70’s

    Did they mark only one of the earrings?

    thank you,
    Tricia

    Reply
  17. I have a Christian Dior gold plated bangle bracelet with cut crystal rhinestones about 3/16” in length around the entire bracelet and it’s marked Christian Dior Boutique @ (copyright symbol). What period is that from and what would it cost. I don’t see any trademark jewelry literature referencing “Boutique”.

    Reply
    • Hi David, I cannot find a thing online about whether Christian Dior made a line signed “Christian Dior Boutique”, nor can I find information saying that these are fakes. I did, however, find a bunch of jewelry on 1stdibs for sale with the same mark (and for hefty prices). It could be worth reaching out to the Dior company and asking them.

      Reply
  18. Hello Andrea,

    Recently bought a Christian Dior necklace possibly from the 'Henkel and Grosse' Era, as the marking on the CD reads as "Chr.Dior (copyright) Germany." I am wondering the authenticity of this seller. The item itself was listed at a fairly high price 200.00$

    I'll leave the link here:
    https://www.etsy.com/listing/1053436843/christian-dior-heart-crystal-pendant?show_sold_out_detail=1&ref=nla_listing_details

    Measurements:
    – Total length when open: 44 cm
    – Pendant dimensions: L1.3 H1.3 cm
    Pendant Necklace
    Hardware: Gold toned
    Hallmarks: ChrDior® GERMANY
    Closure/Opening: Adjustable Lobster clasp
    Overall Condition: Good pre-owned condition.

    Reply
    • Hi Jeremiah, I had a look at the link and browsed around the shop ProudBoutique. To me this looks like a legitimate seller. They have close-up, clear pictures of signatures on the pieces they are selling, the item descriptions are clear and thorough. And they have over 800 sales, along with a five star rating.

      Reply
  19. Your article has been very helpful. I have been trying to identify a necklace that my mother bought in 1951. She has just died aged 95. She was 25 when she came back on her first leave from Nairobi (having gone there in 1948) and bought her Christian Dior necklace with her first pay packet as a treat for herself so we know it was 1951. We don’t know who designed it for Christian Dior though. It is floral rhinestone/clear paste design set in silver and very heavy. Have you any idea who the designer could have been?

    Reply
    • Hi Beatrice, thanks for stopping in 🙂 Sorry to hear of your grandmothers passing 🙁 Are you sure it is a Christian Dior necklace? It has no marking? Based on your description and the date, my guess would be Roger Scemama (he designed for the house in the late 40’s/early 50’s). Are the rhinestones set in highly visible prongs? That is a technique Roger used in his jewelry. Scemama pieces favored silver metal and pink, violet or green Austrian crystals.

      Another designer that it might be from is Kramer who designed for the house from the 40s to the 70s. His is known for high quality jewelry often heavily featuring crystals and golden filigree.

      Reply
  20. Hello Andrea! I'm so happy to find your blog!

    I've a question about a hallmark. I saw clip on earrings which have upside down hallmark. Here is a screenshot https://prnt.sc/26fv2h6. Is it fine for authentic item? I found the same pair to compare https://prnt.sc/26fv618, here the hallmark isn't turned upside down. I'm confused :\

    Thank you for any response!

    Reply
  21. I have a pair of gold cushion design clip on earrings that I believe are Dior. They are signed Chr Dior GERMANY and have the copy right symbol.

    Do you know how I can get them checked please?

    Reply
  22. Hi andrea i have a nacklace of christian dior.
    Necklace is in silver tone look like silver but i dont see a stamp of it and floral design.
    On the necklace i have cd pendant with rahinestones not signed but one flower have dior and c sign of copiration…
    I can send you a pic if need…
    Do you can tell me if it is authentic?

    Reply

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