A Guide to Art Deco Vintage Engagement Rings

What is The Art Deco Period?

Art Deco is a design period that occurred from 1915 - 1935, replacing the French-originated movement Art Nouveau. The term ‘Art Deco’ is derived from an art and design event held in Paris in 1925 - the Exposition International des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The event celebrated the union of art and modern industry.

Art Deco Design

Due to it's origins in the machine age, Art Deco jewelry is characterized by bold, geometric, and symmetrical designs. Diamond cuts were straight and linear and took a central place in jewelry. Calibre cut sapphires, rubies, and emeralds were used to accentuate the central diamond.

Increased travel and exposure to other cultures also influenced the Art Deco design period. Striking symbols, colors, and patterns borrowed from Egyptian, African, Oriental, and American Indians were utilized. Colors were bright and primary, emeralds, rubies, and enamel finishes were common. Metal is minimal, with the focal point being the intricate shapes of the diamonds and accenting gemstones. 

Filigree work (small, intricate cut-outs) was perfected in the late 1920's through the use of die-cast machines. Filigree in jewelry was never done so well as it was during the Art Deco era, with crisp and refined details being readily available in the early 1930's. Nowadays, it is nearly impossible to replicate the filigree work from this time because most rings are now made through the use of wax molds.

The most popular colors during the Art Deco period were: black (onyx), red (coral), blue (sapphire), green (emerald), and white (diamond).

Art Deco Engagement Rings

During the Art Deco Era, jewelers paid very close attention to detail. Jewelry was finely crafted and utilized milgrain embellishments and intricate filigree work. The underside of pieces received as much detail as the top side. Engravings were common along the shanks of rings. 

Flashy diamonds and colored accent stones were a favorite of the Art Deco period. 

Box Settings

Gives a square look to the diamond is houses. Four prongs are shaped like triangles with points, forming a square around the diamond. 

Halo Setting

The central stone is surrounded by a ring, or halo of gemstones. This setting gives tons of sparkle and can make a central gemstone appear larger. 

Invisible Setting

Gemstones sit in a hidden metal framework, allowing them to sit side by side and create a path of gemstones. 

Pave Setting

The pavé setting, pronounced “pa-vay,” comes from the French word “to pave,” as in paved with diamonds. A Pavé setting has tiny prongs that hold small diamonds very close together, creating continuous sparkle. This setting is still very popular today. 

Channel Setting

Diamond or gemstones are aligned in a metal groove without prongs. The walls of the metal are then hammered to keep the stones in place. Wedding bands use this setting a lot. 

Art Deco Engagement Ring Metals

Platinum, 18k and 14k white gold, and sterling silver were the metals of choice. Yellow gold was out of style during this period. 

Platinum

Platinum was very popular because its strength and durability allowed it to be worked into intricate filigree designs. Platinum is an extremely durable, pure white metal that is naturally hypoallergenic. Platinum is much rarer, and therefore, more expensive than gold. 

White Gold

White gold was used to mimic the look of platinum. White gold is alloyed with nickel or silver, to give it its white color. Rings made of white gold are usually electroplated with a rhodium coating, to intensify the white color and add strength. Over time this rhodium plating will wear off and have to be redone. 

Old Mine Cut

The old mine cut is a predecessor to the old European cut and the modern round brilliant cut, but it is most commonly compared to today’s cushion cut diamond because it is a rounded square.

Old mine cut diamonds were popular during the Edwardian era because they allowed diamond cutters to salvage as much weight as possible from the rough diamond.

The old mine cut is a deep cut with a high crown, small table (top facet), and large culet (facet at the point).

Old European Cut

Another predecessor of the modern round brilliant, the old European cut came about as the result of diamond cutters adapting new technology to their trade and cutting rounder diamonds.

The old European cut is rounder and deeper than the old mine cut, but they still have a small table and large culet. It has the same number of facets as a modern round brilliant but lacks the proportions to maximize light return.

Emerald Cut

A type of step cut; their facets are long and angular. The emerald cut is typically rectangular and as its name suggests, is commonly used on emeralds. This cut provides for deep clarity and a large surface table. Emerald cuts give the illusion of a larger stone and make your finger look more slender. 

Asscher Cut

Another type of step cut, the Asscher cut is typically square. This cut features large step facets and a high crown that produces a stunning brilliance often referred to as an endless hallway with reflective mirrors.

Other Gemstones Used in Art Deco Rings

• Rubies, Sapphires, and Emeralds were favorites of the Art Deco era. 
• Colored gems were used as accent stones next to glittering diamonds. 
• Colored stones were used as central stones as well, with diamonds surrounding them as accents. 
• White diamonds framed bold gemstones, sometimes obscure stones were used such as lapis, coral, and onyx. 
• Sapphire cocktail rings were very popular, as were three stone rings featuring sapphire flanked by diamonds. 

What you Need to Know Before Buying an Art Deco Engagement Ring

• They can be difficult to resize due to engravings on the band. 
• Due to basic cutting techniques, diamonds from this era will have less sparkle than modern-cut diamonds.
• You may see some wear. These rings have seen some use, prongs may be thin and need to be re-tipped. Gemstones may have abrasions or chipping. (There are many excellent condition Art Deco rings available, so you don't have to settle for bad condition).
• Diamonds are warmer. Warm colored diamonds were perfectly acceptable during this time, as most jewelry was worn in the evening under low light. 
• Diamonds from this era often do not have grading reports. The GIA will not grade a mounted diamond and removing a diamond from its setting could damage the piece.
• Rings from the Art Deco period were handcrafted with the highest standards in mind. High grade diamonds with excellent clarity were used, and rings often display an outstanding finish quality on the inside as well as the outside.